Hi Ron might help to give a pump and injector type ( ie Bosch " p " pump etc) or engine model , might give some off us a bit more heads up . I have reasonable older diesel skills but a bit lost on late model common rail stuff ,or you might find some one with good " PT " system knowledge ie Cummins or the many other styles that are around .. 

Hope this helps Cheers fishfish 

cool mate

ford transit, 2.5ltr turbo diesel, bosch manual pump

Our mechanic at work is a ex ford mechanic so he knows his transits. Send me a pm and I can ask him for you if you like.

 What I do know is the Ford Trasit vans were a bit notorious for them. Also you can actually buy the same pumps for half the price in the uk and get it sent over as they have so many on the road over there.

through my work we use united fuel injection in Redcliffe. They have good product knowledge and are reasonably helpful.

thanks for the response guys

in short.....

we swapped a lucas electric injection pump to a bosch manual pump..

we did not change injectors as we were told by shop they would be ok

engine was running with the lucas pump

timing of the bosch pump was done by a injector shop

3 pin timing set up on the engine...1 pin in fly wheel, 1 in cam and 1 in the pump

we have pressured fuel at the injectors...no fire...nothing at all, not even a rumble or puff of smoke

have we missed something?????

give me a chev any day!!!

cheers ron

 Going to sound silly. What method did it run for a fuel shut off solenoid on the old pump? Is it the same on the new pump and does the solenoid have power with ignition?

The only other things I can think of are something different with the fuel pressure reg? And the fuel pressure not being high enough to actually crack the injectors off their seat?

 Git it a hit with the aero start. Yes I know not great to use it all the time but it will at least tell you everything else in the engine is ok if it will run on a shot of aero start. 

yeh mate gunna give that a crack on the weekend.

engine is on the ground mate, doing a prestart before it goes in the tub, so no electrics connected at all except the starter cables.

crack the injector pipes while cranking and fuel spits out no probs, poss not enough pressure for the injectors like you said????

cheers

I would put some power to the solenoid.

I can't recall any different injectors on those motors.

I believe they all used the pencil, stanadyne injector.

 If you are getting a fuel pulse to the injector but it is still not firing then 99% sure it is not making enough pressure to crack the injectors. As mentioned give it a quick run an aero start and make sure it fires up OK on that and if it does then it can only really be a fuel problem.

if you get super stuck send me a pm and I can have a look if u r in the perth metro. Although I will be in Exmouth with the boys for nearly 1.5 weeks as if this weekend.

 If it runs on aero start but no on the diesel alone, your diesel injection pump could be 180 degrees out.

similar to that of a petrol distributor being 180 out and firing on exhaust stroke not tdc. If you pump is installed after market  it could be 180 degrees out causing it to inject fuel on the exhaust stroke and not the compression stroke.

just go a little easy on the aero start test to begin with. It will rattle a bit when it first kicks but then you should be able to keep it running at idle with a constant light spray of it.

if you were to inject a BIG amount of it prior to trying to start, them once it kicks you actually have no way of shutting the engine off and can get a pretty serious engine over rev as it has too much fuel in the cylinder at any one time. The only way to shut it off then is to completely starve the air cleaner air supply with a rag. The same type if problem can occur when you fill the engine oil. If you pour it in too fast and there is a little breather hose between the rocker cover and the inlet Manifold, then the engine oil can flood the manifold and the cylinders. Them once you crank the engine then the revs hit about 9,000 when it normally rev limits at 4,000 and good luck getting it to shut down in a hurry then ( a Diesel engine will actually run on straight engine oil if given the chance )! If you look up something on you tube I am sure there would be a good example of this.

being a chev man Ron I am sure you know most of this stuff but just wanted to highlight it as I would hate to see any damage sustained to your new engine. If you err on the side of caution you will be more than fine.

 I'm going to slightly disagree and say that it will not fire on areostart if it's not even puffing smoke out the exhaust . If you have fuel at the injector lines then the electric side is ok for a quick start ( may not stop though ) . When you say manual pump do you mean shut off aswell ?? And can you describe what the pump looks like ( ie rotary or inline ) you may be able to spill time it to check the timing  ??. Back to my original statement if you have all the elements close then the motor will show signs of wanting to fire ie puffing smoke ( usually white ) out the exhaust , this then means its either still has air in the system , likely from a fresh build / install or the motor is cold ( normal ) or my theory pump timing . If none off these things happen then something major is out and in your case off retro fitting different parts a mismatch is likely and as scano has mentioned injector crack off pressure  .. 

Hope this helps fishfish 

hi guys

thanks to all those who replyed on here and via pm's, very much appreciated!!!!!!

magic F/W to the rescue once again.

we got the engine running today with no areostart, turned out to be the +wire connected to the fuel cut off solenoid, as soon as we did this she fired up instantly, runs pretty good.

now we have another slight prob...

she will idle fine no probs, but when you give it a rev, the revs stay high or continue to climb by themselfs, take the power away from the fuel cut off solenoid momenterally and the revs drop back to idle.

the only thing we have not connected properly a.t.m is the return fuel line to the tank, this is leaking straight out the back of the pump, where the fitting goes (problem with a fitting and we cant sort till tuesday now).

i am guessing this is a non presure return line and would not make a differance or am i mistaken?

can it be to do with the advance/retard of the timing? for those who know you can move the pully on slotted holes.

suggestions?????

thanks again guys, your input made it easier

ron

if your talking about the cold start solenoid on the pump, it has been removed.

cooling sorted out no probs, it runs a heat exchanger with the raw water cooling the fresh water.

cheers

hi guys

every thing is now connected up and the engine is running of the key,

but we are still getting the revs climbing on there own once you touch the excelarator.

if you start it up and dont rev it at all, it will idle fine no probs.

soon as you give it a small rev, the revs go up higher and higher and do not return to idle.

could it be the diaprham on top of the pump?

we have checked for air leaks and are pretty sure there is none.

any other ideas.

thanks again

ron