Solar panels
Submitted by jarrid on Sun, 2014-03-09 08:48
I have done a search and haven't been able to find wha to am after. I am looking to get a solar panel set up on the roof of my boat to tops the batteries up but also to run up to say two fridges. The worst case situation would require having enough grunt to maintain the 2 x fridges for two days whilst the boat is getting towed from say exmouth. I have twin batteries and a vsr.
Questions are:
- what wattage panel?
- what type of panel is generally used?
- what else is required in the system? Is it jus a regulator or do you need a charge controller?
- any recommendations on where to source the gear locally (been told jaycar)
roof
bus bar
isolator
vsr.
Image Upload:
Vinesh87
Posts: 2751
Date Joined: 02/04/11
What size/ type fridges.
What size/ type fridges. Need to know the draw?
What Vsr, does it have solar input? If not I suggest a system like ctek 250 dual
Think most are using polycrystalline panels.
Remember a lot of solar systems will not charge a battery after a heavy discharge!
Rob H
Posts: 5818
Date Joined: 18/01/12
On Ebay, Bitdeals do a top
On Ebay, Bitdeals do a top value 120W panel with MPPT controller
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/120W-FOLDING-SOLAR-PANEL-MONOCRYSTALLINE-COMPLETE-SET-/360466559807?pt=AU_Solar&hash=item53ed7b333f
I have one of these on my boat mounted flat and it will maybe make about half the required topup for a 50L Waeco.
If I tilt it to the sun 3 or 4 times a day it will almost do it.
Ive had mine for a year and PaulG bought one as well-mine still works perfectly
I doubt there is better value around than these for $170 delivered.
Give a man a mask, and he'll show you his true face...
The older you get the more you realize that no one has a f++king clue what they're doing.
Everyone's just winging it.
Vinesh87
Posts: 2751
Date Joined: 02/04/11
I have one of those too, it's
I have one of those too, it's ok. Works a hell of a lot better running through my ctek than the mmpt charger as it also boosts the voltage/ Mine wont charge once the battery is flat!
But best bang for your buck for sure
jarrid
Posts: 363
Date Joined: 20/08/10
Got a Waco 40l and other
Got a Waco 40l and other potential would be an engel of about the same size.
Vsr only says ignition protected 125amp cut in 13.7v dc cut out 12.8v dc. Made by BEP marine.
Thanks for responses.
jarrid
Posts: 363
Date Joined: 20/08/10
Updated with a couple of
Updated with a couple of photos. Can I run solar to bus bar at the front and then have that top up the batteries and provide power to the fridge?
Would it work if the isolator was off? Which is how i would leave it. Or do I have to do it another way?
cheers again.
Chongy
Posts: 88
Date Joined: 04/11/09
Battery pak
I just brought a battery pack from the 12v shop the other day. It's like an arc pak just cheaper and am going to strap that down in the front of my boat and run a solar panel to that so then my fridge and deep drop gear runs separate to my dual battery set up. Haven't set it up yet so will let you know how it goes when it's up and running
squidvicious1
Posts: 824
Date Joined: 22/07/10
Redarc do good stuff also,a
Redarc do good stuff also,a little bit dearer but nice looking gear all that you require for solar.
CCC
Posts: 539
Date Joined: 29/03/10
Mono crystal
Just did a trip down south. Run 1x 40engel via 2x 90watt panels through a regulator hooked to a car battery. Note that the battery only received charge from the panels not via alternator.
we run this set up for 3 weeks with no problems. The panels produce about 8 amps per hour. Also we were camping in Forrest areas so not getting sun all day like they would on the boat roof.
ccc
A-SALT-WEAPON
Posts: 103
Date Joined: 07/07/10
Use Generator
Jarrad if Its mainly to keep the fridges running why dont you use a gen set?? 1 or 2kw.. Run it in the boat.. We did it gives you 240 power, we ran a cord back in the car used computors to watch videos ran the fridge, freezer, run a battery charger to your boat battery if need.. charge phones and stuff.. You dont have to worry about power draw. Just a thought.. Just as cheap and more reliable power sorse..
Big Thump
Posts: 8
Date Joined: 07/03/10
Solar Matrix in willetton
Solar Matrix in willetton have perfect kits for boats & cars.. give them a call
GET ON BOARD
Swompa
Posts: 3912
Date Joined: 14/10/12
Get one of the flexible
Get one of the flexible panels. 100w should maintain a fully charged battery.
we have two x fabric 5w panels maintaining batteries on the boat. Still have to run the motor to top up before night if we are going all night, but the small panels work ok.
flexi panels are expensive but they are light and can take a hammering.
Rocktron
Posts: 66
Date Joined: 08/02/13
leave space on roof
make sure you leave space on the roof for my kayaks!!! i just bought 2 new ones and their coming up with us
Vinesh87
Posts: 2751
Date Joined: 02/04/11
I personally would be going 2
I personally would be going 2 x 100w(120w or as big as can fit) panels connected to a decent regulator like the Redarc or ctek. Direct to the house battery ( depending on your VSR they can top up your starting battery too)
Don't go too small because not only does it need enough to power the fridge, it needs to producing enough to power and recharge the batteries that drained from the night before.
A hot day they will draw more current
If your cycle through the fridge like we do they will draw more current
When then batteries drain they will draw more current.
A Freezer on a boat during the hot day will be drawing a solid 2-3amps. So a 100w panel at maximum effeciancy will produce about 5.2A so 200w would just be a enough to power and recharge 2 fridges/freezers.
Just my 2c and what i will personally be doing soon.
Vinnie
jarrid
Posts: 363
Date Joined: 20/08/10
Thanks all for the comments
Thanks all for the comments (apart from rocktron).
Dale
Posts: 7930
Date Joined: 13/09/05
What sort of battery are you
What sort of battery are you considering? Ensure you are charging similar sized batteries and type if your doing more than 1. Also ensure you use a good MTTP regulator also, there is a lot of crap out there, stick with a good name like Redarc, Steca or Morningstar or similar. As for panels, be aware of a lot of cheap crap out there and the said solar output is never what it really is anyway, ie a 120 watt panel is only likely to produce 85 watts. This due to the fact a panel will produce around 18 volts at x amount of amps, but your regulator will drop the volts down to a usable amount around 13 volts or thereabouts, depending on how good your regulator is, so you drop the volts and you drop the amps and therefore the wattage drops also, so while the ouptut is correct, that's only good if you want 18 volts.
Cheers
Dale
"Just because you are a Character, Doesn't mean you have Character."
Mr Wolf
petermac
Posts: 2946
Date Joined: 03/03/10
elect/ instro engineer
reasonable explanation but lots more to it when it comes to solar power i was responsible for all nav aids in Hampton harbor for 10 years which were solar powered, if I was to pick a solar regulator it would be the be the BP solar reg don't forget 10 % coverage of a panel means zero out put from it
Dale
Posts: 7930
Date Joined: 13/09/05
BP are ok too.
Yeah I would rate the BP ones pretty highly also. We are looking to put plenty of solar onto our motorhome when we get it. I've already purchased around 950 watts of uni solar amorphous thin film panels along with a 60 amp Morningstar regulator feeding into 12 x 6 volt 225ah Trojan batteries ready to go into what ever we end up with.
cheers
Dale
"Just because you are a Character, Doesn't mean you have Character."
Mr Wolf
Swompa
Posts: 3912
Date Joined: 14/10/12
What sort of batteries are
What sort of batteries are you running? How many AH?
petermac
Posts: 2946
Date Joined: 03/03/10
hey mate
I used to maintain all the (solar powered) nav aids in Hampton harbor THE MOST IMPORTANT THING IS HAVE A REGULATOR ON YOUR PANNELLES or you will cook your batterys
jarrid
Posts: 363
Date Joined: 20/08/10
12v 180rc 95ah on one and a
12v 180rc 95ah on one and a mrv70 105ah cca760 for the other.
Cheers,
Vinesh87
Posts: 2751
Date Joined: 02/04/11
No dramas with your
No dramas with your batteries, both being dual purpose.
Swompa
Posts: 3912
Date Joined: 14/10/12
I would think that running
I would think that running house power and fridges would get those batteries drained fairly quickly to be honest.
In my opinion: Upgrade to 2 x 130ah batteries.
Running 2 x fridges, they will intermittantly use up to 5 watts per hour. Assuming that your fridges will work for 2/3 of the day (once they are cool, they go onto standby), you could use 160w in a 24 hour period. Trusting your solar panels are working efficiently for 12 hours a day, you will need to generate that much power in the sunny period which will not only put back what you used, but top up the batteries.
ON my last camping trip, my regulator in my 220W panels died as it was a cheap one. Dont buy a cheap one.
When it was working, i had a 60l Evacool as a fridge, and a CF40 as a freezer. It was able to not only maintain my batteries, but also top them up. Then my battery dropped a cell and it all to shit.
What you need to think is that running your motors will charge up the batteries. Having only led lights (no GPS, no plotter no finder ect) on in the evening will draw stuff all.
I would think a 150w panel would do. I again recommend a flexible one, but they are costly.
Apologies that this post jumps around a bit. trying to type between people annoying me at work.
Vinesh87
Posts: 2751
Date Joined: 02/04/11
Sure the battery is a little
Sure the battery is a little on the small side for 2 freezers. When he will only be using one at 105ah. I have run 2 of my 120ah in my car with 120w panel no dramas. But the conditions are not quite the same as i always try to park in the shade etc etc.
I Certainly wouldnt put 2 new / bigger batteries in. For upgraded ah's i would installed a third battery the same ( pretty sure his little rig has the room)
Like i said i would be opting for 200w with a decent reg.
And as a option just for towing run a anderson plug straight to the boat haha!!
Swompa
Posts: 3912
Date Joined: 14/10/12
I run my two from a single
I run my two from a single 130ah but my start battery is sepearate.
i used to run a 35l cooler that drew 7w/h. Flattened my 100ah battery overnight from full charge
Vinesh87
Posts: 2751
Date Joined: 02/04/11
Yes my batteries are
Yes my batteries are seperated by a VSR.
Jarrids starter battery is seperated from his house battery by a VSR too?
If your talking about a Thermoelectric 35l cooler they draw 45w+ constantly?
Swompa
Posts: 3912
Date Joined: 14/10/12
"If your talking about a
"If your talking about a Thermoelectric 35l cooler they draw 45w+ constantly?"
That explains it!
It sits under my desk at work now keeping a carton cool now days
Vinesh87
Posts: 2751
Date Joined: 02/04/11
hahaha yeh they are good when
hahaha yeh they are good when your not paying the power bill haha
jarrid
Posts: 363
Date Joined: 20/08/10
yeah pretty sure that the vsr
yeah pretty sure that the vsr is between the two otherwise what's the point?
there is an anderson plug from car to boat already which tops up the anchor winch battery that lives on teh trailer. might just get a line from that to the boat batteries as a temp set up and sort out properly when i have time. do i need a regulator or anything with that or is it OK to go straight to the batteries? also what connection to batteries?
Vinesh87
Posts: 2751
Date Joined: 02/04/11
Correct useless without it
Correct useless without it haha
I assume you mean to the trailer winch, a anchor winch battery on the trailer would be hard to use...haha
You would be needing a dc-dc charger. The trailer winch would probably have one in the box, could pay to check what it is and possibly use this or install a new one in the boat. Back to Ctek, i would put a Ctek 250s dual in the boat and this would correct any voltages and maintain your batteries ( the problem is charging bifferent batteries wont work properly. The 250s Dual is also a solar input and a dual path charging system.
Yes i rate them very highly.
Just be aware you will need to correctly size the cable so there is not too much voltdrop. ( 10%)
jarrid
Posts: 363
Date Joined: 20/08/10
umm yeah. was wondering why
umm yeah. was wondering why the anchor winch never worked...
got an anderson to battery on the trailer for the trailer winch. will most likely have a look at setting this up to keep charging the batteries in transit when the fridge is draining them. dont think i am going to be able to sort the solar thing in the next two weeks prior to heading up to exxy. can be next problem to sort when i get back...
thanks for all the advice
Vinesh87
Posts: 2751
Date Joined: 02/04/11
What type or battery is the
What type or battery is the trailer winch ?
The boxes are pretty big! Just stick a double cigarette lighter off that if its big enough!
Dale
Posts: 7930
Date Joined: 13/09/05
eBay
And be aware if buying panels off eBay, there are some 32 cell panels that are quite cheap, but won't be very useful for charging batteries. Only go for 36 cell (most common) or 72 cell panels.
Cheers
Dale
"Just because you are a Character, Doesn't mean you have Character."
Mr Wolf
jarrid
Posts: 363
Date Joined: 20/08/10
Photo of the trailer winch
Photo of the trailer winch battery has been added. This is fed off an Anderson plug off the car.
is it as simple as running a cable from the terminals on this to the terminals on one of the two batteries on the boat? If so would it go to the starting battery? Do you need any regulator or anything else in the system between the two batteries?
p.s. I hate electricity...
Vinesh87
Posts: 2751
Date Joined: 02/04/11
If your going to charge the
If your going to charge the boat batteries yes because they are calcium batteries that require a higher charge voltage. Whats the ah rating on the winch battery, run run fridges of that?
jarrid
Posts: 363
Date Joined: 20/08/10
it is 95ah. if i ran that to
it is 95ah. if i ran that to teh main batteries i would know that the main ones are topped up and it would effectively give me three batteries worth overnight. wouldn't it?
Vinesh87
Posts: 2751
Date Joined: 02/04/11
Yeh up to you I wouldn't
Yeh up to you I wouldn't bother haha. you will need a dc -dc charger then!
http://www.ctekbatterychargers.com.au/ctek-d250s-dual.html
Ian S
Posts: 71
Date Joined: 20/01/14
For a quick fix
Just run a pair of heavy wires from your anderson plug to you boat batteries. It won't keep them fully charged without a DC-DC charger but it won't be an issue if you are just wanting to run your fridges for the trip up.
Without wanting to open up a can of worms regarding 12 volt systems (you can go and read the camping forums for that) keeping it as simple as possible works 99.9% of the time.
Hooking all three together will give you more capacity.
jarrid
Posts: 363
Date Joined: 20/08/10
ian - just to clarify. if i
ian - just to clarify. if i set up an anderson plug on the trailer winch battery that i can plug into as required, a similar set up on the main battery of the boat, and then simply run a cable sufficient for the length between the two it will run the fridge no worries?
just looking at teh most simple fix for now, will sort solar when i have more time.
Vinesh87
Posts: 2751
Date Joined: 02/04/11
Your boat batteries WILL NOT
Your boat batteries WILL NOT charge properly without dc dc charger. Your boat batteries require a higher voltage to charge properly as they are calcium and the jeep/ trailer are normal wet cell with a voltage regulated alternator. It will work but you could start your exy trip with undercharged/flat batteries!
Ian S
Posts: 71
Date Joined: 20/01/14
Simple fix
Yes it will, just use heavy wire, I would go for the largest size you can fit in a 50 amp anderson plug and keep the wire as short as possible.
As has been suggested your batteries will not be fully charged up without a DC to DC charger but they won't go flat, most modern car fridges turn themselves off if the voltage drops too low anyway. Your boat motor will top them up once you start using it. I assume that your car isolates your winch battery when its turned off if not unplug it from the car at night and start the car before plugging back in in the morning. If you are worried about it take a 240v charger with you and plug it in when you have access to power.